Special Sanitary Care for Long Haired Cats

Long-haired cats are absolutely beautiful, and their soft, satiny fur just invites you to stroke them. Unfortunately, sometimes that lovely, long hair can create litter box problems that you will have to address. A short-haired cat seldom has any problems with accumulated feces on his or her backside, but this is often not the case with a Persian, Angora, or other long-haired breed.

You may well notice that your cat has been scooting its bum along the floor after using the litter box; the reason for this is that fecal matter has probably become caught in the hair. You may notice discolored streaks on the rugs or furniture, and often your cat will have a distinctly nasty odor. Finding stool outside the box after your cat has used it shows that your cat is inadvertently dragging feces out of the box on their hair.

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Helping Your Cat 

While cats are very good at grooming themselves, mats of hardened stool are impossible for the cat to remove, and you will have to step in to assist.

• Use a dampened paper towel as soon as your cat steps out of the litter box to remove any attached feces. Taking it off at this stage will be a lot easier than if it builds up. Starting this procedure when your cat is a kitten will make it routine.
• Daily brushing is essential for long-haired cats. Not only will it help prevent fecal mats from forming on the underside of the tail or on the backs of the legs, but it will keep hairballs from forming.
• If the fecal mats are too large for brushing, but not attached to the skin of the cat, you may be able to carefully cut them off. This is a two person job, and you can expect your cat to be upset.
• Heavy fecal mats, especially those that have become attached to the skin will require that the cat receive a warm bath. It may take some time for the matter to loosen up, depending on the size of the mats. Because your cat may fight you, have someone help you during the bath. Once the mats have broken up, change the water and gently shampoo the area.
• Some owners of long-haired cats simply use clippers to remove the long hair from the bum in order to prevent mats forming in the first place.

Be sure to inspect your long-haired cat's rear end every day to make sure that stool has not become caught in the fur, and if any is present, remove it immediately.

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Picking Out the Sneaky Eliminator

While there is obviously no question who is not using the box if you only have one cat, when you have two or more, finding the culprit could take a bit of sleuthing. You may have a fairly good idea of who the malefactor is, and a trip to the vet to rule out a medical problem is the first step - if you only have two cats, take both, otherwise stick with the most likely candidate to begin with.

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Pinpointing the Culprit 

Finding out which cat is urinating and defecating other than in the box is not an insurmountable task, and here are some hints that will help you find the culprit.

• A nanny cam, set up near the scene of the crime (remember the criminal often returns to the spot) can show you who exactly is not using the box.
• Small cameras that attach to a cat's collar can also help. These won't show the actual deed, but will show the area where the cat has been eliminating.
• The cats can be sequentially isolated from the rest of the clowder, which will show the box-avoider by a process of elimination.
• Your vet can give you a harmless dye that will show up in your cat's urine when using a black light lamp.
• If pooping is the problem, you can put some small pieces of red or yellow crayon in the suspect's food, but only when given the go-ahead by your vet.

Overcoming the Problem

The problem can simply be that there aren't enough boxes for the number of cats; each cat should have his or her own box, and there should be an extra as well. If a dominant cat is causing the problem, place the target's litter box at some distance from that of the top cat - usually moving it gradually is the best approach.

A cat that has been declawed will often experience heightened sensitivity in the paws. Your choice of litter might simply have been too harsh, and often a softer litter will solve the inappropriate elimination. 

Changing the type of litter box could also have a positive effect. Some cats don't like enclosed boxes, and some are afraid of motorized boxes. Litter box liners can also bother cats, so if all else fails, get rid of the liner. And, always make sure that the box is clean; no cat likes to use a box filled with feces and urine-soaked litter.

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Schedule a Trip to the Vet's When Elimination Problems Arise

Nobody likes finding a puddle of cat urine soaking into the rug or in the middle of the bed. However, if your cat suddenly starts misbehaving as regards the litter box, the problem may well be a medical condition. Atypical behavior and inappropriate elimination is a red flag for a visit to your vet, especially if you have made no changes to the litter box. 

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Urinary Problems Can Be Serious 

Urinating wherever the cat feels like it, rather than in the litter box, often means something has gone amiss in the cat's urinary system. Only your veterinarian will be able to diagnose and treat these conditions properly. Your cat may be running to use the litter box every few minutes or will simply let loose wherever he or she is - this indicates that the cat simply is unable to hold it. The amount of urine may be quite small, or it could contain blood or appear cloudy. Urinary problems are often painful, too, and your cat may mew when attempting to go to the bathroom.

• A simple bladder infection can be treated quite easily with antibiotics. However, if left untreated, it can lead to serious complications.
• Your cat can also suffer from feline interstitial cystitis. This is something of a catch-all ailment involving an inflamed and irritated bladder and urethra. Crystals might be present in the urine. Antibiotics appear to have little effect on FIC, although dietary changes may help.
• Feline incontinence can also be caused by bladder stones. Some of these can grow to a significant size, nearly filling the bladder. Stones generally have to be removed surgically.
• Crystals can form in the cat's urinary tract as a result of diet. These can sometimes evolve into bladder stones or can even form a plug which prevents the cat from urinating at all. Plugs will have to be dealt with immediately by surgery.
• Serious health problems, such as tumors can also cause your cat to urinate frequently and inappropriately.

Urinary problems are much more common in male cats than they are in females, and still more prevalent in males cats who have not been neutered. While there is no way to guarantee that your cat will never experience these difficulties, there are a few things that can help to prevent them:

• Make sure your cat drinks as much water as possible.
• Diets that are more acidic will help prevent the formation of crystals and stones.
• Canned food is recommended to keep the urinary tract normal.
• Feed many small meals during the day, rather than one or two big ones.

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Ask Your Vet about a Medical Approach

One of the most important aspects of inappropriate elimination, whether it involves urine or feces, is to get to the root of the problem as quickly as possible. Never punish your cat when you find an 'accident', the cat will have no idea why you are hurting it and it will just make your cat more stressed and more likely to repeat the act. Consulting with your veterinarian is the first thing you should do - there could be much more to the problem than you might imagine.

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Physical Issues

There are a number of urinary conditions that can cause your cat to suddenly begin urinating outside of the box:

• Bladder infections are fairly common in cats and the irritation from the infection will cause your cat to force out small, but frequent, puddles of urine. Antibiotics are the answer.
• Bladder stones form from an alkaline diet, and these irritate the lining of the bladder, making it more likely that an infection will follow. Some stones can almost fill the bladder. These stones will have to be removed surgically, as will plugs in the urethra.
• Interstitial cystitis is a rather mysterious disease that combines both physical and mental factors. Stress seems to cause an inflammation of the nerves that are attached to the bladder, which then leads to a weakening of the protective mucus lining. Interstitial cystitis is treated mainly by varying the cat's diet, giving pain medications and altering the environment. This results in lowering the cat's stress levels.

If your cat is defecating outside the box, this may well be a sign that the gastrointestinal system is affected:

• Constipated cats will strain and struggle to poop, and often desperation forces them to do so wherever they are. A change of diet can often help.
• A number of things can cause your cat to have diarrhea, such as illness or infection. In this case, the cat may simply be unable to reach the box. You vet will have to diagnose the cause of the diarrhea and take appropriate steps to control it.

Treating the Psychological Aspect of Inappropriate Elimination

The sensitive nature of cats can put them under stress, and this can result in your cat's inappropriate elimination. Some success has been achieved in reversing inappropriate elimination using medications such as the tranquillizer valium, and neurotransmitter blockers such as amitriptyline and buspar. Medications used to treat human depression, like clomipramine also have been effective. 

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Many Cats Can Mean Elimination Problems

Cats are certainly not social in the same way that dogs are, but their behavior patterns have certainly been changed over their long association with humans. Strictly solitary in a natural setting, cats now enjoy not only the company of people, but often that of other cats. It's not unusual to see a pile of cats sleeping happily together. However, you should always keep in mind that cats do need a bit of space and privacy as well. Households with multiple cats often suffer from litter box problems where one or more of the felines soils inappropriately.

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Pinpointing the Culprit 

Once one of the cats starts avoiding the litter box, it's important to try to find out which one it is. The problem often arises because one cat is dominant over the others and will attempt, often successfully, to keep the other cat, or cats, from using the litter box. Fights can actually follow as the dominant cat 'repels boarders'. In most cases, the cat who is lower on the social spectrum will be the one who is the inappropriate eliminator. Refrain from punishing the guilty party, neither the dominant cat nor the one who is urinating on the rug; just find a solution as quickly as possible. 

What to Do

It's not too difficult to overcome litter box avoidance in a multi-cat home, especially if you approach the problem through the eyes of your cats.

• The most obvious solution is to provide several litter boxes for the cats, placed at a distance from each other. Cats enjoy some privacy when using the box and a dominant cat will have more trouble enforcing his or her position if the boxes are separated.
• Dirty litter boxes invite cats to avoid them. Keeping the boxes clean will encourage the cats to use them.
• Observe your cats and see the spots each cat enjoys most - this will be the best place to put a litter box.
• Do not situate litter boxes near where the cats eat and drink; this is especially important when you are adding new boxes.
• Use an enzyme cleaner to remove all traces of urine and feces from places where accidents have occurred. Cats will be attracted to the smell and consider the area to be a latrine.

Always keep in mind, too, that after discovering who is not using the litter box to have the culprit examined by your vet just to make sure that no medical problem is present.

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Litter Box Avoidance

Litter box avoidance can arise in one of several ways: your new kitten or cat simply refuses to use the box you provide, or your cat suddenly stops using his or her litter box. Cats are very fastidious in their habits, and even very young kittens will attempt to use a designated litter box rather than soil the floor or furniture. 

When you find an 'accident' of one type or another, it's important that you refrain from punishing your cat - harsh words or blows will not encourage your companion to return to the box - it's up to you to determine why the cat is eliminating inappropriately. 

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Seeking a Solution 

The very first thing to do if your cat starts avoiding the litter box is to schedule a visit to your veterinarian. There could be factors such as a bladder infection, bladder stones, or constipation that could be causing the problem. However, if your cat's health is normal, there are other things that are making your cat avoid the litter box:

• Most cats will avoid using a dirty box. Cleaning the box frequently will often be the answer. Too many cats using one box contribute to this problem.
• Moving the litter box to a new place can cause confusion. Cats are creatures of habit, and shifting the box to a place that might be more convenient to you can result in soiling inappropriately.
• If you have started using a new kind of litter, your cat may not like the smell of the new product or the texture. Scented litters might be too strong for the delicate nose of a cat.
• While mechanized, self-cleaning litter boxes do save owners work and will keep the box cleaner, many cats are afraid of the noise these boxes generate, and may take some time to get used to them.
• Make sure that the cat's box is the right size - boxes that are too small make the cat uncomfortable.
• Hooded litter boxes can keep the home looking better and the floor neater, but some cats are afraid of entering a dark place. Liners may also cause a problem.
• Intact adult cats mark their territory with a spray of urine, especially the toms. Neutering the cat will help resolve this cause of litter box avoidance.

Getting your cat back on track and using his or her litter box may take some time, but in most cases a solution can be found that will work for both you and your feline friend.

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Is Your Cat Marking Your Home?

The smell of ordinary cat urine is strong enough, but when a cat spray marks, the odor will be even more overpowering and unpleasant. Unlike urination, which does leave a message for other cats to an extent, spray marking is more like a billboard with lights. The whole reason for marking is to inform other cats of a particular cat's presence. And, while urine is simply the waste that has been filtered out by the kidneys, marking includes other bodily chemicals with information about sex, health, and undoubtedly other important cat messages.

Unlike normal urination, which is made by the cat squatting down, spray marking is done when the cat is standing and the deposit will be made on a vertical surface such as a door frame or the front of a sofa or chair. The cat will back up to the chosen area, and wiggle its tail as it delivers the spray behind it. The volume of the spray is much less than is produced when the cat urinates.

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Stopping Spray Marking 

While some female cats will spray mark, the main culprits are intact males. Spray marking is used not only to deliver some information about the sprayer, but also to mark territory, which is especially important in the wild where hunting grounds must be protected. This behavior is also much more common in homes where there are several cats, and an order of dominance constantly needs to be established. However, there are steps you can take to minimize the chances of spray marking.

• If you have a multi-cat household, provide several litter boxes, rather than just one, there should be a box for each cat, and a spare.
• All litter boxes should be kept completely clean. Feces and clumps of urine-soaked litter should be removed daily and the litter changed completely once a week.
• Block off the area being spray marked. The cat will usually return to the same spot periodically to 'renew' the fragrance, so denying access can help to eliminate the problem.
• Use an enzyme cleaner to remove the spray. You may have to apply it several times to remove all the smell.
• Neutering both toms and tabbies can help to stop spraying behavior.

Stress can also trigger spray marking, so address any issues that may be making your cat, or cats, nervous.

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Interstitial Cystitis May Be the Problem

Interstitial cystitis is one of most mysterious of feline diseases to manage and treat. Part of the problem lies in the fact that the symptoms of this illness can be so vague and broad that pinpointing the correct diagnosis can be difficult. The usual victims of interstitial cystitis are young male cats, although females can also suffer from this as well. Many cats who are afflicted with FIC usually outgrow it eventually

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Symptoms of Interstitial Cystitis 

Diagnosis of interstitial cystitis is usually made on a basis of the symptoms that the cat is presenting. In most cases, there is no sign of infection, but your veterinarian will suspect interstitial cystitis if you cat is showing some of these symptoms:

• Straining when he tries to urinate.
• Urinating with great frequency, with sleep disturbed by the need to urinate.
• Blood will usually be present in the urine.
• The symptoms appear when the cat is subjected to stress.

Causes of Interstitial Cystitis

Research is still underway to understand exactly what causes interstitial cystitis in cats. No one theory of the cause of this condition has been absolutely agreed upon, but several lines of thought have been proposed. The nervous system appears to play a major role. 

• The nerves that serve the bladder may have become inflamed. Some veterinarians believe that stress alone is responsible for this inflammation, while other think that an irritated bladder lining begins the cycle.
• The bladder is provided with a protective coating of mucus, which keeps the waste products filtered out by the kidneys from causing it to become irritated. If the mucus is somehow damaged, harm can be done to the bladder wall, causing inflammation.
• Stress is just as harmful to cats as it is to humans, and flare-ups of interstitial cystitis are often linked to a stressful situation, particularly with cats that remain indoors exclusively or in multi-cat households.

Treatment 

Despite the severity of interstitial cystitis, it is one of the more difficult of urinary tract diseases to treat successfully. Antibiotics are generally useless in providing relief, although a bacterial infection should be ruled out to begin with. 

Most veterinarians treat interstitial cystitis with anti-inflammatory drugs such as prednisone. These help to reduce inflammation. Anti-inflammatories are usually given in combination with pain relievers. Another approach, since stress appears to be a major factor, is to give the cat antidepressants and anti-anxiety medications. To help heal the bladder and make it less susceptible to damage, your vet may prescribe drugs that will help restore and strengthen the mucus coating.

You can help to prevent a recurrence of interstitial cystitis by feeding the cat canned food and making sure that he or she drinks plenty of water. Making the home more relaxed and providing toys and attention can also help to keep your cat free of FIC. 

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Improper Elimination and Your Cat's Feelings

Our domestic pets, cats and dogs, have evolved with human beings over thousands of years. Cats have been living in our homes, catching mice, curling up on our laps, and sunning on our windowsills for countless generations. Cats are very intelligent animals and have sensitive feelings which can be affected by both physical and psychological events around them. One of the more subtle reasons why your cat may have decided to use your bed as his or her litter box is that the cat's feelings have been upset in some way.

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Is Your Cat Anxious or Unsettled? 

Because cats are so astute and sensitive, changes in the household, even relatively minor ones can cause enough of an upset that your cat will begin avoiding the litter box. Should medical problems be ruled out, it could well be that your cat's feelings have been affected.

• A new pet in the house can rouse feelings of jealousy and hostility in your cat. Urination and defecation are just some of the tools at your cat's communication disposal. And these tools are employed to indicate disapproval.
• Moving to a new house or apartment can be confusing and frightening to a cat. Accidents are very common in this situation and indicate that the cat is insecure. Giving the cat extra attention can help it to acclimate more quickly and use the litter box again.
• Cats can just plain get mad at their owners, sometimes for an identifiable reason, sometimes for some arcane feline compulsion. Cats that are angry at you, if you have been away, for instance, will show their feelings by soiling your bed or rug.
• Most households go through up and down periods, and during 'down' periods, you cat may be reacting to the emotions of the people around him or her. People who are arguing, fighting, sulking, or crying can all upset a cat. Your cat's misbehavior can actually be nothing more than a reflection of that of its owners.
• Don't take out your frustrations and anger on your cat. If you are stressed, find a better way to handle it than by using your cat as a punching bag. Cats that have been abused and are fearful will eliminate anywhere they can out of anxiety.

A cat doesn't start using the general home as a toilet for no reason. If you have found no physical cause for the problem, look into how your household atmosphere can be affecting your cat.

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Help Your Stressed-Out Cat to Relax

While we may think that stress only affects humans, the fact is that cats can easily become stressed and show this by inappropriate elimination. The intelligence and sensitivity of cats makes them susceptible to stress, and when you begin to find puddles on furniture or rugs, it could well be the result of an upset and fearful cat.

Stress can actually cause a physical condition, interstitial cystitis, to occur in your cat. Although this illness is not completely understood, it appears to affect the nerves connected to the bladder and can cause your cat to lose control. Once other medical conditions have been ruled out, it will be time to help your cat relax once again.

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Meditation for Kitties?

Unfortunately, it's not possible to teach your stressed-out cat how to meditate, but there are some things you can do to help your cat relax and hopefully return to normal litter box use as quickly as possible.

• Multi-cat households usually have one cat who dominates the others to some extent. A cat who is 'lower down on the totem pole' can feel threatened by the top cat. Providing a safe spot for the lower status cat can help relieve the pressure he or she may be feeling. A litter box, bed, food, and water in a separate area can help calm a nervous cat.
• Make sure there are enough litter boxes for all the cats in home. Each cat should have their own box, and all the boxes should be kept clean. Jockeying for position with other cats at a single litter box can cause a cat to avoid using it.
• A change in litter can also upset a cat and cause inappropriate elimination. If you are changing litters, do so gradually, adding a bit of the new one every day.
• Upsets in the household, such as illness, a new baby, or a new pet can stress your cat out. If possible, pay more attention to the cat and try to settle things in as quickly as possible – a return to routine will help your cat back to the litter box.
• Indoor 'trees' for cats give cats a secure perch where they can get away from other pets and young children who may not understand how to treat animals.

Sit down with your nervous cat and spend some time simply stroking the animal. This is very soothing and comforting to a cat, and you will probably find yourself relaxing as well.

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Finding the Right Box for Your Finicky Cat

The biggest mistake cat owners make when purchasing a litter box for their fussy cat is that what you may think looks like the perfect box may be anything but that to your kitty. Manufacturers design boxes that will appeal more to the buyer, in many cases, rather than what your cat will actually use. Understanding what constitutes an acceptable box for your cat will help keep waste where it belongs - in the litter box.

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Choosing the Right Box 

You might find that there is a rather bewildering array of litter boxes for sale. Long gone, evidently, are the days when cat owners cut a cardboard box in half and filled it with litter. Not only can you cat use a basic plastic box, there are also enclosed boxes and mechanical self-cleaning boxes and special boxes that fit on your toilet. A good deal depends upon the personality of your cat - a laid back kitty will be more apt to take whatever you give him or her, while a nervous cat might be spooked a fancier box.

• The plastic pan is probably the most widely used of boxes. These boxes should have the litter changed completely once a week. Washing them before putting in new litter will keep the box smelling nice longer. If you are getting a plastic pan for a kitten, make sure it's low enough to allow the kitten access easily.
• Covered boxes look neater, but some cats don't like going into a dark spot to eliminate. These litter boxes also take up a good deal of room.
• Mechanical boxes that automatically remove waste are not only quite expensive to buy and maintain, but many cats are afraid of the noise and motion.
• Toilet seat boxes may be the ultimate in sanitary treatment of cat waste, but it can often be difficult to get the cat trained to use this kind of litter box.

You can help make it more likely that your cat will accept the box you have chosen if you put it in the right area - somewhere private, but not dark and cold, and somewhere still close to the main part of the home. 

If your cat absolutely refuses to use the litter box you have purchased, it would probably be easier and less stressful for both of you to simply try another kind of box. 

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Finding the Best Spot for the Litter Box

Although some cats will use the litter box regardless of where you place it, just so that they can somehow reach it, other cats will balk at using an inappropriately positioned box. Choosing a good place for the litter box means that there will be less chance that you will find wet spots on the rug or 'worse' behind the sofa. Cats are clean animals and will use their box if it is convenient and accessible.

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Think Like a Cat 

Cats not only need a litter box filled with dry, clean, loose litter to dig in, they also need a place where they feel comfortable. The placement of the litter box should be for your cat's convenience, not necessarily yours. And, ultimately, a litter box that is used consistently by your cat will be the most convenient for you, regardless of where it's located. 

• Do not position your cat's litter box next to his or her food and water dishes. Nobody enjoys eating in a toilet.
• Cats, like people, enjoy a bit of privacy when going to the bathroom. Don't place the litter box so far from the center of activities that it will be difficult to use, but do put it a bit off the beaten path.
• The litter box should be in a lighted area so that the cat feels safer using it. Don't put the box in a dark basement filled with clutter; the cat will be afraid that it might be attacked when using the box.
• Make sure that use of the litter box doesn't require you to open a door for the cat - there should be free access to the box at all times.
• Once you and your cat have found the right place for the litter box, leave it there. If you find that it must be moved, do this gradually by shifting the position of the box a little each day.
• Multi-cat households should also provide multiple litter boxes. It's also a good idea to keep the boxes separated from one another. There should also be an extra box in case one of the regular ones is soiled or otherwise inaccessible.
• If you have a house with several stories, it's a good idea to have a litter box available on each floor. There will be less chance of an accident if your cat doesn't have to travel a long distance to use the box.

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Fear May Be Keeping Your Cat Away from the Litter Box

Cats tend to be alert, somewhat nervous animals who can react with fear to a number of situations, and this can result in inappropriate. Being 'fraidy cats' has helped cats to survive in the sometimes hostile natural world where they might make a tempting meal for a larger animal. Although living with humans has undoubtedly softened some of the cat's natural skittishness, they still depend upon instinct to keep them safe, and often appear to us to overreact. 

There are a number of reasons why a cat might be avoiding the litter box, such as an infection, or a dirty box. However, fear can also be responsible for litter box avoidance and in soiling inappropriately, and this could well be the case with your cat.

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Why Your Cat Might Be Afraid of the Litter Box 

The fear your cat might be showing as avoiding the litter box could stem from his or her fear of the box itself, or of the place where the box is situated. If your cat associates a certain spot in the house with an unpleasant or traumatic experience, it could cause your cat to mess outside the litter box. Cats have good memories and will associate the litter box with the incident long after the 'danger' is gone. If simply moving the box is not an option, there are ways to help your cat overcome his or her fears.

• Use positive reinforcement, such as treats and petting to help your cat relax in the room where the litter box is located.
• There are attractants that will help lure your cat to the litter box that can are useful in overcoming the cat's fears.
• If you have recently gotten a new litter box, there could be something about the box that is frightening him or her.
• Make sure that while the box is in a place that grants your cat some privacy, the area is also well-lit and warm.
• Accompanying your cat partway to the litter box can help your friend to feel more secure. The need for this will diminish as the cat's confidence grows.

Most cats who develop a fear their litter box because of past trouble in the area can be helped to overcome this with patience and kindness. Never punish your cat for messing on the rug or behind a chair, it will only make the animal more nervous and less likely to use the litter box in the future

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Encouraging Litter Box Use

Most kittens and cats are eager and happy to use the litter box. When we had a litter of Siamese kittens years ago, we put down the top of a shoebox filled with litter for them to use, and those little guys went right into it to do their business at about four weeks of age. However, things do not always go as smoothly as this, and when your kitten or cat is avoiding the box, it's time to take a close look at what the problem might be.

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Getting Your Feline Friend to Use the Litter Box 

In a natural state, cats seek out dry, loose sand or soil in which to urinate and defecate. Avoiding litter box and inappropriate elimination shouldn't be too hard for cats of any age.

• In a natural state, cats look for dry, loose sand or soil in which to urinate and defecate. If you provide a litter that mimics this, you will have a good chance of having your cat use the box without problem. Many cats do not like scented litter, so stick with an unscented brand at least until your cat is used to the box.
• Keep the box clean. Remove soiled litter every day, and the sooner the better. The litter in the box should be changed completely once a week and the litter pan washed.
• If you have more than one cat, provide a litter box for each one of them. Most cats aren't fond of sharing the box with another.
• Choose a spot that the cat likes to use for elimination, preferably away from where the cat eats and drinks. Most cats like a bit of privacy, too, so placing the box in a more out-of-the-way spot can encourage use.
• Should your cat be resisting using the box, you can try confining the cat in a small room with the box available. In most cases, the cat will get the idea and start using the box.
• Kittens, especially, can be easily trained by using an attractant in the box until they become accustomed to using it.

The above suggestions refer to getting a cat or kitten to use the box to begin with. However, if you have a cat that has been using the litter box reliably and suddenly stops, there could be a medical problem involved and you should schedule a visit to your veterinarian as soon as possible.

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Cats Are Cleanly - This Can Help Stop Litter Box Problems

The most common reason why cats wind up sitting in a cage at an animal shelter is because they refuse to use the litter box. Cat urine has a very strong odor, and getting it out of fabric or even removing the smell entirely from hard surfaces can be difficult. And, cats have been known not only to defecate behind furniture to hide the deed, but also often on the worst places possible, such as your bed. 

If you've been frustrated in trying to get your cat to use the litter box, you may be surprised to learn that the answer to the problem could be very easy to solve. Please note that any cat who is not using the litter box should be checked out by a veterinarian, just to rule out hidden illness.

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Keeping It Clean 

Rather than getting angry at your wayward cat, it may be time to examine a critical element in the problem - the litter box itself. Cats are very clean animals, and one thing that can drive a cat from his or her litter box is a box that is filthy. Put yourself in your pet's place and imagine how you would like to use an overflowing toilet; you wouldn't, so why should your cat. Today's busy world often leaves us trying to do too much in too little time, but the litter box cannot be neglected.

• Clumping litter is probably the best choice for the litter box. Not only does this kind of material make it easier to remove feces, but it also makes it simple to remove urine. You should use a scoop to take out the clumps at least twice a day, and if you are home most of the time, scoop the box as soon as your cat is finished. Remember to add a bit of new litter to compensate for what was removed.
• The entire box should be changed once a week if you have only one cat using it and at least twice if you have several cats all using the same box. It's best to provide a box for each cat, however, to prevent one cat from dominating.

Cleaning Up After Accidents 

Although you may have read that soap and water or baking soda will remove cat urine odor, they will not. Some of the compounds in cat urine are not water soluble and require an enzyme cleaner to remove the smell completely. You may need to repeat the process several times until all the odor is gone. Your nose will tell you when the job is done. 

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Cat Urine Odor Removal Tips

There is no mistaking the heavy, ammonia smell of cat urine. Whether your cat is simply urinating wherever he or she wishes, or is spraying urine to mark territory, the result will be the same. This is a strong odor that will affect a surprisingly large area of the home, even if the problem area is relatively small. You should actually account yourself lucky if you are able to spot a puddle or a wet area on the rug or upholstery and begin treating it immediately. However, once the urine has dried, in most cases you will have to locate it by smell or by using a black light

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Odor Removal Once the Urine Is Found 

Once you find out the problem area, it's important to take some care to remove the urine as completely as possible; not only for the sake of your nose, but to discourage your cat of thinking of that particular spot as a bathroom. 
The organic compounds found in cat urine can pose some problems in removing the odor - some of the compounds are water soluble, but the uric acid not only is capable of binding to adjacent surfaces, but is not soluble by water. When you find fresh urine you should: 

• Wipe up the urine from hard surfaces with a paper towel and use the same to blot urine in furniture or rugs. Don't use cloth unless you are prepared to throw it away afterwards.

• An enzyme cleaner is your best choice for removing cat urine. These cleaners are specifically designed to break down the uric acid into ammonia and carbon dioxide, which will simply off gas naturally afterwards.

• Do not try to hasten the drying process after using an enzyme cleaner since it interrupts the normal dissipation of the ammonia and carbon dioxide.

• Use the best enzyme cleaner possible - inexpensive cleaners often require multiple uses before they remove the odor of cat urine.

• Be generous when applying the cleaner; you should soak the target area to allow the enzymes to really do their job.

• After leaving the cleaner on for approximately a quarter of an hour, blot it up, then let the spot dry naturally.

Although rugs are the usual areas where your cat may urinate, beds, sofas, and clothing can also be sullied. Use the same procedure on these as you did on your rug. Slipcovers and clothing should be washed separately after they have been treated with the enzyme cleaner. Spray marking will be found on a vertical surface such as a door frame or chair leg. 

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